Why Grow Your Own Potatoes?

Potatoes are one of the most rewarding vegetables to grow at home. They're relatively low-maintenance, produce a generous harvest from a small space, and homegrown varieties offer flavours and textures you simply won't find in a supermarket. Whether you have a large field or a few containers on a patio, it's possible to grow a meaningful crop.

Choosing the Right Potato Variety

Potatoes are grouped into three main types based on when they're ready to harvest:

TypeDays to HarvestBest UsesExamples
First Earlies60–80 daysSalads, boilingRocket, Arran Pilot, Swift
Second Earlies80–100 daysBoiling, saladsCharlotte, Kestrel, Wilja
Maincrop100–120+ daysBaking, roasting, storingKing Edward, Maris Piper, Desiree

For most home growers, a mix of first earlies and a maincrop variety offers the best spread of harvest times and culinary uses.

Chitting: Getting Seed Potatoes Ready

Chitting means encouraging seed potatoes to sprout before planting. This gives them a head start and can improve your yield, particularly for early varieties.

  1. Source certified seed potatoes (not supermarket potatoes, which may carry disease)
  2. Place them in egg boxes or trays, rose end up (the end with the most eyes)
  3. Keep in a cool, light, frost-free location (a windowsill works well)
  4. Allow 4–6 weeks for sturdy, dark green shoots to develop — about 1–2cm long is ideal

When and How to Plant

Plant first earlies from late March, second earlies from early April, and maincrops from mid to late April, once the risk of hard frost has passed. Potatoes prefer a slightly acidic, well-drained, fertile soil (pH 5.5–6.5).

  • Dig trenches or individual holes 10–15cm deep
  • Space first earlies 30cm apart (rows 60cm apart); maincrops 40cm apart (rows 75cm apart)
  • Place seed potatoes with shoots facing upward and cover gently with soil
  • As shoots emerge, earth up by drawing soil up around the stems — this protects from frost and encourages more tubers to form

Watering and Feeding

Consistent moisture is key to a good potato crop. Irregular watering causes hollow heart and scab, while waterlogging promotes blight. Water deeply once or twice a week during dry spells, especially once plants begin flowering — this signals that tubers are forming below ground.

A balanced fertiliser applied at planting and a potassium-rich feed as plants bulk up will support good tuber development. Avoid excessive nitrogen, which produces lush foliage at the expense of tubers.

Pest and Disease Awareness

  • Potato blight (Phytophthora infestans): The most serious disease. Watch for dark brown patches on leaves and stems in warm, wet weather. Remove affected foliage immediately and avoid wetting leaves when watering.
  • Slugs: Can tunnel into tubers. Use biological controls (nematodes) or physical barriers.
  • Common scab: Rough, corky patches on skin — caused by dry conditions and alkaline soil. Water regularly and avoid liming before planting.

Harvesting Your Potatoes

First earlies are ready when the flowers fully open — ease a plant out of the ground to check tuber size. Maincrop potatoes are harvested in late summer to early autumn, once the foliage has died back. On a dry day, use a fork to carefully lift the entire plant, working from outside the row inward to avoid spearing tubers. Allow harvested potatoes to dry on the soil surface for a few hours before storing in cool, dark, paper sacks. Never store in light — it causes greening and the production of solanine, which is harmful if eaten.